India has two great standing sun temples, and the elder one is not Konark. Katarmal, raised by the Katyuri king Katarmalla around the 9th century, stands on a dawn-facing ridge across the Kosi valley from Almora — the principal shrine of Surya as Burhadita, the old sun, ringed by some 45 smaller temples. On winter solstice mornings the rising sun still strikes through to the sanctum, exactly as its builders intended.
What You'll See
The main temple's massive shikhara, though weathered, keeps its power; the complex's finest carvings — the famous 10th-century wooden doors — now live in the National Museum, Delhi, after a theft attempt decades ago, while an ASI replica guards the sanctum. Sculpted panels of deities crowd the courtyard shrines; bring slow eyes.
How to Reach
Katarmal is ~17 km from Almora: drive the Kosi–Ranikhet road to the Katarmal turnoff, then a short climb — vehicles reach close below the complex, leaving a 10–15 minute walk through the village. Sunrise visits are the connoisseur's choice.
Best Time to Visit
Year-round; October–March for the sharpest light and snow-line views toward Trishul. The temple is an ASI monument — open sunrise to sunset, no entry fee at present.
Pair It With
Make the full Almora day: Katarmal at dawn, Chitai Golu Devta and Nanda Devi at midday, Jageshwar's deodar grove after lunch, Kasar Devi for sunset — the exact rhythm of our Kumaon journeys.
Doing the Almora Heritage Day?
Katarmal, Chitai and Jageshwar make the classic Almora trio — we run it with a Kasar Devi sunset to finish.
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